Living life, one mile at a time!

Category: Texas 2023 Page 2 of 4

Our Texas 2023 Trip Blog Posts

The Turn Around Point

Always concentrate on how far you have come, rather than how far you have left to go. The difference in how easy it seems will amaze you.

Heidi Johnsen

We have officially hit our turn around point and it is time to head east 😱.

So, we are heading to Quartzsite, Arizona; this has always been on Steve’s bucket list. This area is extremely well known in the RV world for their RV rallies but we were there a month after the big event.  We did drive through it, and decided not to stay. It was sad for me that this was such a disappointment for Steve.

After a brief stay in Bouse, Arizona, (45 minutes from Quartzite) we took a side trip to Lake Havasu City. This little day trip was another suggestion by our new California friends. The lure of the city is London Bridge. Yes, I said the London Bridge. This original London Bridge was completed in London England in 1831. It was then sold by the City of London in April 1968. For a price tag of $2.46 million at that time. It was purchased by Robert P McCulloch, who founded Lake Havasu, and wanted the bridge to attract tourists to the area. To see this area today he definitely managed to attract tourists here!

It was definitely a lot of fun being a “Tourist” and walk the London bridge. So, in good British style we stopped at a local pub for a beer.  The Barley Bros. Restaurant and Brewery. Nice beers and we really enjoyed their tostado nachos!

After leaving Lake Havasu City we drove through another absolutely gorgeous range of mountains. The one thing that still amazes me today is the amount of mountains down here. I do not know why I ever thought Arizona was flat!

Our final stop for the night was in Morristown, on the west side of Phoenix at another Harvest Host; Dillion’s Western Trails Ranch & BBQ. Here we were fully immersed in the Cowboy culture; hat’s boots and spurs. We also got to see a rodeo roping completion.  For the record I am not a fan of the stress put on the small bulls but to be immersed in the middle of this culture was mind boggling.  The good food (Kanas Style BBQ) and live music was another bonus. I tried their “Big Mac”  – who knew that macaroni and cheese on top of a char broiled burger would be so good.

Are We Blessed?

Expect the unexpected, and when ever possible be the unexpected.

Lynda Berry

Our furthest point west, Joshua Tree National Park, California! Established in 1936; this park is where the Mojave and Colorado deserts converge. The Mojave Desert is the western part of the park at elevations above 3000 ft. The Colorado desert is the eastern half of the park which is below 3000ft.

An interesting fact, is that I kept wondering why the vegetation was so incredibly varied in different parts of the park. Apparently when you see the wild-armed Joshua tree, which is actually a species of Yucca, you are in the Mojave Desert. The higher elevation and the only area the Joshua tree grows.

Here we are looking forward to some good California sunshine and warmth. Now, depending on how you look at it we can consider ourselves really lucky or really unfortunate as we had snow!! We stayed at the higher elevation in Black Rock Campground😊.

Our first night had high winds with gust up to 80 miles/hour. You know it’s bad when you are getting weather alerts in emails and texts from the park! It was so bad, we thought Winnie was going to tip. Both mornings we woke up to snow; which most people say is rare. Since there is more storm weather coming through, we cancelled our third night and got a refund the day to boot!

We did get to explore all the park we wanted to. We hiked the Hi-View Trail and nearly blew off the top; the things we do for a picture. We drove the scenic loop with many stops along the way to discover and of course take pictures. The Keys View was a scenic overlook that had a view of San Bernardino Mountains; the Coachella Valley, and the San Andreas Fault.

We were intrigued by some of the rock formations and the shapes of the Joshua Tree. We truly enjoyed Indian Cove and the nature trail there. Although all these were great to see and do, my favorite part of the park was the Cholla Cactus Garden (lower elevation). Even in the rain and snow, this was a beautiful park. So every time I hear the song “ It never rains in southern California” I will always think of the snow.

Thank you to our California friends who suggested coming here. Would I go back you ask? In a heart beat.

Act of Kindness

We keep moving forward, opening new doors and doing new things because we are curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths.

Walt Disney

California is the place you ought to be, â™Șâ™Ș so we loaded up the truck and headed to Brawley â™Șâ™Ș (not Beverly). Yes, we did head to California.

Our first night was in Brawley, California nestled in the Imperial Valley. Here we stayed at a the “Desert Olive” olive farm. Cowboy Clyde was the host for this Harvest Host stay. Here we learned about olive farming, the trees, olives, and olive oil. We also learned about the water rights and irrigation practices in this area; as this is a huge agricultural area.

We tasted the difference between EVO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil), and others. We also, learned about how the grading system works. One of the most enlightening things was the supposed outside influence in the European olive oil industry. 

I especially found it interesting the information about harvesting; how important the timing is, and how mechanical and automatic the olive farming business is.

Our next stop was the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. This park is the largest state park in California (1000 square miles). When you first view the park there is this incredible view of the vast desert floor surrounded by the jagged mountain peaks. Now, because of the rain that they have had in the area the Wild Flowers are in bloom (apparently a little early this year) The pop of color in the barren desert was beautiful. It is totally amazing how these beautiful flowers can bloom in the otherwise bare desert. This park is also in close proximity to the big cities of California, so it is the most populated/busy park that we have ever seen.

We wanted to take the Borrego Palm Canyon Hike. It is a 3-mile hike, unfortunately for us Winnie could not fit into the parking lot so we had to hike another mile each way. The trail meanders through the valley to a shady palm grove. We could not get really close the palm trees themselves as they are recovering from a fire that went through the area in January 2020. It was remarkable at how well they are recovering.  Also there was actually water running in the creek (1st time in over three years).

Along the way we met this lovely couple from Washington State (Jim & Wendy). They were celebrating their 45th wedding Anniversary.  They celebrated a few of their anniversaries in the Canadian Rockies; and their 40th, in Nova Scotia.

Well, by the end of the actual hike I was knackered. I would have paid someone to drive me back that last mile to Winnie’s parking spot. As we were having a snack at the trailhead; there were Jim and Wendy. Yep, you guessed it they drove us back the last mile and I didn’t have to pay them.  I will always remember that act of kindness.

It’s a Date

I like to challenge myself and I like to try new things.

Jessica Lucas

For anyone of you who know me, you know I love to bake and create flavour combinations with CHOCOLATE. So, one day I found a recipe that combined chocolate, spices and dates. I found an Anna Olson’s cooking video that made a chocolate spiced date cake, that used Medjool dates from Yuma. After watching the video and making the cake I so wanted to go to a date farm in Yuma.

Originally, we did not think we would travel this far west. However, in the continuous search for warm weather we eventually made it here.

Our time in Yuma was pleasant and warm. In looking for a Saturday farmers market we came across this massive outdoor market. It was as big as shopping mall, but under tents! There must have been over 100 vendors, food, electronics, appliances and even had a quilting shop. It was interesting to see what some people try to sell.

Now to the best part
Martha’s Gardens Date Farm. Unfortunately, there were no tours on Saturday, however the knowledgeable staff and a movie taught us all about date farming. We even had a chance to see and feel a seed pod that they opened for us. It was amazing the amount of water each plant needed and that it takes almost eight years before they produce enough dates to harvest.

Everything here at Martha’s was done by hand. (Planting, pruning, harvesting, sorting, and packaging.) They even collect the pollen from one plant and pollenate the other by hand with a drip bottle. They were not leaving anything to chance. Now, apparently it is the home of the world’s best date shake
. Yep, I agree! However, I have only ever had this one.

So, for those that know Steve, he’s always on the lookout for deals. They had 5 kg (11 lb) boxes of dates for $35. That was a deal he just couldn’t pass up! Needless to say we now have a freezer full of dates as we are slowly eating our way through them…

We next checked out the downtown Yuma; here we learned a little bit about their history and local prisons. We did not go to the historic Prison State Park, but did check out the Prison Hill Brewery. (Advice from our California friends). Steve had the highly recommended “What’s Your Poblano Man Burger (very spicy!).

Our last night here was at Garden Oasis RV Park. Not the type of park we usually look for as it was mostly seasonal residents. However, it had a place for us and a POOL! It was truly a little oasis.

Sound The Alarm

It’s not the place you travel that makes it worthwhile, it’s the people you meet along the way.

Anonymous

well, we decided to forfeit our 3 days at Chiricahua because of the cold and snow and off we headed further west to find warmth.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument was our new destination.

The park campground was immersed in the unique rugged wonder of the Sonoran Desert.  We decided to do the South Puerto Blanco Road. It was only a 7-mile drive; however, the road was so rough and Winnie is not a four-wheel drive, it took us over 2 hours to drive it. All along this drive there were many signs about illegal immigration and smuggling and to avoid contact if encountered. Oh yes to call 911 if you needed help. 

When we got to the trail head, we were the only people here and we were very uncomfortable about leaving Winnie unattended. Not to mention that we did not have any cell service! So, we had lunch, took a few pictures and turned around.

One thing we did get to see was the Wall. This structure is 30 feet high made of metal and seemed to go on forever.  I had always heard of it but didn’t realize they actually built it. This must have been an enormous project, the manpower and the resources required; not to mention the destruction of the local environment.  We were so close we could have touched it. However, out of fear of setting off some alarm we decided to only take a picture from the camper. (Us daredevils you know 😊)

We did manage to do a couple of trails closer to the campground. The Desert View had beautiful views and impressive stands of the organ pipe cactus. The other was into the old Victoria Mine; where the old mineshaft and ruins of the mine store still remained. It was at Organ Pipe that we met a lovely couple from California; Kristie & Sara. They gave us a lot of travel tips and encouraged us to head to California
 Stay tuned…

Oh, What A Party

Look deeply into nature and then you will understand everything better.

Albert Einstein

Wilcox, Arizona. We stayed at the Cattlerest Saloon RV Park. It was a Harvest Host but we upgraded to services to have power for the big game. Even better, as we found out they were having a Super-Bowl party! And who could say no to that? It was such a great time! We met some of the locals, and fellow RVer’s, and best of all some real die-hard football fans! Even though my team lost, it was great to watch the game in this atmosphere.

Now the weather forecast is calling for snow, ice and nasty temperatures for the next few days.  We decided to hopefully stay ahead of it and head into the Chiricahua (Cheer-I-Cow-ah) National Monument. Not chick a wa wa wa (I say it that way to drive Steve crazy).  

The drive into the park was something out of this world. The scenery was so unique. It was a wonderland of rocks. Now, on the advice of our new friends from the Superbowl Party we decided to take the Echo Canyon Loop hike. One should note that the park ranger warned us that we were going to get snowed on. We decided to chance it anyway.

This 3.5-mile hike took us through some spectacular rock formations; these pinnacles of rocks towered above us. Their distinctive height and shape made the walk so awe inspiring.  We lucked out and did have some periods of beautiful blue sky before the snow started. 

We then took the scenic drive, which took us to an elevation of 6870 feet. However, in the snow the view was limited.  We decided at that moment it was time to cancel our reservation for the next three nights and head west. 😊. Stay tuned as we try to stay ahead of cold weather…

Advice from the Locals

Adventures are the best way to learn.

Anonymous

So, on advice of a local (Terry), we changed our planned route and checked out the city of Las Cruces (population 109,934) second largest city in New Mexico..

On our way to the city we noticed the highways were lined with these perfectly spaced trees (30-50 feet apart) making for beautiful unique views. We learned later today that these were Pecan Trees for which the area is quite well known! 

We also checked out their very large Saturday morning Farmers Market. (180 Venders). It was here that we learned about Pecan farming from Kristen of Worthington Pecan Farms. Pecans are apparently the only native nut to America. It was fascinating to learn that New Mexico is one of the top three producers of Pecans in the world. Also, that this county (Dona Ana) is the number one producer in New Mexico.

She informed us on how they are harvested as they literally shake the trees to knock the pecans off, then they gather and separate them. Also unique to pecan farming is that there really is no you “have” to harvest by a certain date. Which she stated takes a lot of pressure off. We tried pecans roasted, toasted, spiced, baked in cookies, made into jam, pressed into oil and my favorite; ground into chocolate. A big thank you to Kristen.

Now, every trip to a farmers market isn’t complete until you visit a food truck. Today we tried Barbacoa Tortas and Burritos.  (Mexican Pulled Beef mixed with green chiles). Yummy. Next, and Steve’s favorite, was Osito’s Biscochitos booth. Biscochito being the official state cookie of New Mexico. I much preferred the Mexican wedding cookie.

Our next stop (on the advice from the radio announcer) was Mesilla historic district.  And yet again another famous Billy the Kid jail. I believe this one he broke out of. 😊

Next up Hatch, the Chili capital of New Mexico. They love their chili’s! 50 lbs bags. Really! We compromised and bought a small bag of Taco Chile spices.  Now, to cool things down we stopped at the Ice Box Brewery. They had just opened today. We had a great talk to the owners who gave us some more places to visit in New Mexico!

Melt Down

Travel teaches tolerance, patience, acceptance, and how to live in the moment. There is no greater gift.

@worldlyroamer

Old El Paso – no not the salsa! It’s our day trip into the historic district of old El Pasco. San Elizario.  We arrived in this district around 10:00 am. The place was deserted; no one told us it was a ghost town. So, we walked around and checked out the local mission. (This was part of the Mission Trail after all). Then at 11 am we saw a sign of life as a local business put their open sign out! This little bar was a biker’s bar called Shooters. (Not Hooters 😊). It was Taco Thursday! Tacos were $1 each, the beer was cold and cheap too.

Now apparently since the San Elizario Mission is one of the last missions on the trail, all the shops don’t open until noon.  It was a fun afternoon wandering around the historic town. Definitely a slower pace then the big city. We visited the only jail in the old west that Billy the Kid actually broke into. (Anything for a bit of history). We laughed whole heartedly at the shrieks of school kids on their field trip, when the jail guard tried (successfully) to scare them.

We found a local Mexican bakery (Sorpresa Bakery) and tried almost one of everything he made.  Some things I would definitely buy again while others were a definite acquired taste. I did realize though I really need to take Spanish lessons!

Now our third morning in Hueco Tanks Park, Jo (I), had had enough. Frozen water lines, cold weather
.Melt Down Time!!! And I am not talking about the hose having to melt/thaw so we could put it away. 😊

El Paso (population 800,000) is a one of the biggest cities we have seen in a long time. So, against our better judgement, we are heading to the big city. Here we found a Home Depot to buy some Reflecitix. (Something to keep the cold out was a must).

Then we found an outlet shopping centre on the west side of the city for retail therapy and a hair cut. Now, I was NOT going back to Hueco Tanks. New Mexico here we come!

We stayed the night just inside the New Mexico border in Anthony at the Public House 28 Brewery.  While trying a few of their brews we met some nice people from Washington state who invited us to visit them. Then we met Terry; a local high school teacher who convinced Steve to change his plans and check out some different areas of New Mexico. Stay tuned…

It’s All About the Rock

Whether in commerce, science, or politics – history remembers artists.

Naval Ravikant

Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site. This area has three unique large rock formations that rise above the Chihuahuan Desert floor. It is a little Oasis of nature and culture; that due to its geology and water availability has served as a place for animals, plants and humans for over 10,000 years. The rock art, that the park is famous for, dates back to the pueblo-type farming peoples (1000 AD). Apparently, there are thousands of pictographs in the park. Sadly, we only found a few…

They are extremely strict and protective of their park. So; we had only had access to the North Mountain. Unfortunately, we were unable to book a guided tour of the rest of the area. Oh well, we still made the best of it.

Now the other big attraction to the park is rock climbing. It was interesting to watch these young people climb up and over the sides of the rocks. Definitely not something on my list of things to do. We did however manage to keep ourselves busy for a day. 

Tomorrow Day Trip
El Paso!

Searching
.

Not all who wander are lost.

J. R. R. Tolkien

We are now on Mountain time, so up early. After catching the sunrise at the Fort Davis Skyline drive viewpoint, we are heading north. We took part of the scenic loop drive through the Davis Mountains. These mountains are the most extensive mountain range fully contained with in Texas. We drove by the Mac Donald Observatory – (one of the major astronomical research facilities in the world), but it was not open. It is a definite stop if we ever come back this way.

Not sure where we are stopping for the night. I want to stay in Van Horn; Steve thinks Dell City. We drove through Van Horn; not sure about this one. I am sure it was lovely in it’s time. But No Go today!

Next stop was the Guadaloupe Mountains National Park. They had no room for us. Also, it was literally a paved parking lot (no thanks). So, we had lunch here and enjoyed the fantastic scenery. Apparently, this park preserves the rugged spirit and remote wilderness of the American West.  These mountains seem to tower majestically into the Texas sky. The view was iconic to the old Western movies my dad used to watch.

Now, unbeknownst to me, we were in the need of fuel
 Next stop Dell City. Well, to call Dell City a city is a stretch. Population 225. However, it had agriculture! They produce a lot of hay; I mean a lot!! On further research it seems it is alfalfa hay!

We checked out the RV park (a gravel pit) and decided to carry on. I wanted to try out Rosie’s cafĂ© but the parking lot was full.  Then out of the corner of my eye was a small green sign for off road diesel. (They had on road diesel too). Halleluiah!

Okay, next we are going to try Mountain Hut for camping
Hell NO!!! Now on a whim we stopped at Hueco Tanks State Park. They had a site for us. We now have a home for 4 nights!!!

In Tow…

Not I, not any one else can travel that road for you, You must travel it for yourself.

Walt whitman

Fort Davis is a little town in Texas that sits at an altitude of 5050 feet. It is situated in the middle of the Davis Mountains which are the most extensive mountain range fully contained within Texas. The state park we are at is another one of those many parks that were built in the 1930’s by the CCC.

Now our biggest challenge the past few weeks has been connectivity and Wi-Fi access.  Steve actually tried to conduct a business meeting in the shower block because it was one of the few areas with Wi-Fi in the park 😊.

We decided to hop on our bicycles and ride into town (just 15km round tri p).  The plan was to go to the local coffee shop; have coffee, a treat and hook up to their Wi-Fi, and get some work done. We stopped at the Double Shot Coffee Lounge. The cinnamon buns were fabulous! However, the Wi-Fi not so much (oh well). The coffee “Texas Wildfire Blend” was so good Steve had to buy a bag. This coffee is made in honour of all the firefighters who fought day and night to control the West Texas Wildfires of 2011 that destroyed more than 314,444 acres of land.

Now on the way into Fort Davis, Steve was quite far ahead of me. When I passed the hot dog cart vendor, he offered me a length of yellow rope out of the back of his truck. He said I could tie it to the back of Steve’s bike, so he could tow me up the hills. This way I could keep up. He was such a pleasant character. We did not get the yellow rope, but we did support him and bought a hot dog. By the time I walked up the last steep hill to the campground, I really wished I was “In Tow” with that Yellow Rope đŸ˜Š.  Tomorrow we will definitely drive, not cycle the Fort Davis Scenic Loop.

ABC

A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.

Lao Tza

Well, the trip wouldn’t be complete with out Another Beautiful Canyon. This one was Closed Canyon. Interesting name, I know. Some rock-climbing skills were required. This canyon leads to the Rio Grande, but the access to the river requires vertical climbing gear. Which means height (no thanks to either).

It was early morning and we were the only people there. It was a little unnerving given that we were right on the Mexican Border. Interesting enough it is the first time Steve’s spidey senses were up. However, we prevailed. Steve looking for other humans and me planning escape routes, if we crossed a bear or a coyote!… I know right! 

We stopped to check out the Hoodoos. We nearly lost Winnie in the ruts and potholes of the entrance way! So, we decided that the Hoodoos would have to wait for another day.

We skirted the Mexican border till we hit Fort Leaton State Historic Site. (more history). It is one of the largest and finest historic Adobe structures in Texas. It was built in the early 1800’s. The adobe buildings were historically made with bricks that were a mixture of straw water and clay.  You wouldn’t think that they would be strong enough. 

What is that ridiculously large wooden cart that Steve is standing by you ask? It is a Carreta!  It is believed that this is the first wheeled vehicle that was brought into the U.S.; by the Spanish in 1590. The wheel that Steve is next to is 6 feet tall. It is believed that some of these back in the day would have wheels that were 9 feet tall and it could take up to 12 oxen to pull them!

Then, there it was; the first sign of real civilization. The little town of Presidio. We loaded up on some amenities. We tried a Mexican treat called Conchas (light and fluffy shell shaped sweet bun). I am so glad we only bought one as I could have eaten a dozen.  

Then we headed North. We did get stopped by US Border Control, but once they found out we were Canadians they waved us through. (We must look trustworthy😊). This last part of our drive was a flat and wide-open expanse of desert. Such a different terrain than we have seen in a while.

We had a brief stop in Marfa (population 2000) to look for the PRADA shoe store. I know right. Finally stopped at Davis Mountain State Park for the night. Electricity, water and HOT SHOWERS!! Halleluiah!

On a Whim

Spontaneity is what travel is all about.

Zach Anner

Our last day in the park.  After catching the Sun rise from the view point, we are heading west.

Before we leave the park, we have one last chance to go to Boquillas
for whatever reason we both passed. However, on a whim (and against the park attendant’s advice) we took Winnie on the road down to the Hot Springs. This was definitely what Grampy (Jo’s Dad) would call a white-knuckle drive!

It was well worth the effort. The natural hot springs is situated right on the edge of the Rio Grande!  They were soothing; both mentally and physically. Apparently, they were believed to be the “healing waters”. The geothermal processes and emerging at 105 degrees F (41 degrees Celsius) The water in the hot springs carries dissolved mineral salts reputed to have rejuvenated powers. The setting was serene, like out of a movie.

          Our next stop was the ghost town of Terlingua. We had lunch (a burrito) from a local vender at the market – but no beer! 😊 We checked out the ancient cemetery. (Steve’s family has a thing for old historic cemeteries). Our plan was to stay here tonight 
.. No Thanks! Not really much of a town and we wanted more of the natural scene.

          Next stop; Big Bend Ranch State Park. We managed to get their last campsite (in La Cuesta)! We stopped at Contrabando (which they tell us was an old movie set for a western). Apparently, this state park was voted by National Geographic as the most scenic drive in Texas. After leaving the National Park, we highly doubted it. However, I must agree that National Geographic is right; this was a spectacular drive!

Missed Opportunities

I realized something on the ride. I realized if I wait until I am not scared to try new things then I will never try them at all.

Marie Sexton

Fear can rob you of great opportunities. I feel today we missed out on a great experience. One thing to do that was suggested by many people was to cross into Mexico at the Boquillas border crossing. From here you are to take a row boat ride across the Rio Grande (for a small fee), then check out one of the two Mexican restaurants for a burrito and a beer. Still not sure why we didn’t. (Irrational fear that it was unsafe).

We did however take the hike into Boquillas Canyon and walked along the Rio Grande. We met up with some Mexicans who had crossed the Rio Grande on horseback; to sell their crafts, and even Chicken Tamales! They were all extremely friendly, polite and not pushy. I talked myself out of buying the chicken tamales. Because of fear; how was it cooked, is it kept cold in that saddle bag? Maybe it was the fear of breaking the law! Really Jo?? Who would ever know : you eat the evidence!  These friendly people are only trying to make a living!

The one thing I am extremely grateful for is that I did not listen to that man from Michigan who put the fear of God in me to not come to this park.  I am so grateful for every Texan that we met that encouraged us to come here; that it was safe, and it is an opportunity that we should not miss.

This has been the most SPECTACULAR week that anyone could imagine.  For anyone coming to Texas we highly recommend a trip to this magnificent park called Big Bend.  As the postcards say around here, this is Texas’s gift to the nation.

Give a Hoot!

Life is a hoot. Get you some of it. Be careful. Be courteous. Be Kind.

Capt. Billy L Sandifer

At 4:30 this morning we were rudely awakened by the cry (hoot) of an owl!  Really? If only he could have started the coffee!

Well, another night of rain. I had to check and make sure we didn’t float down the river.  Today’s destination is the third part of Big Bend, The Rio Grande Village.

Since there was a hint of blue skies, I was heading back to Santa Elena Canyon.  All the while singing “Blue Skies from now on” . Can’t a girl dream?

It was here that we got to put our feet in the Rio Grande!  It was very unique as this is he border of Mexico!  The left side of the canyon belongs to Mexico and the right side the US. So, we stayed to the right.

Once again, we are traveling the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This time it is 15 degrees, blue skies and NO ICE! It is so amazing what one can see when it is clear. The drive is appropriately named as it was truly scenic.

Our adventure for today was a nice (2.5 mile) hike to the Homer Wilson Ranch and Red Rock Canyon. This canyon is a series of red rock pinnacle formations. Apparently, the surface of these volcanic rocks has oxidized to give it it’s reddish tinge. It is this red color that showed off the geological features of the rocks as they literally glowed when the sun hit the canyon walls.  The interesting thing is that this is not one of the top hikes in the park; but it definitely should be.

One thing for sure; the mountains and the desert combine for some “Awe” inspiring beauty that one cannot describe or capture digitally.

It is not just the scenic beauty of this place that makes it so special. It is also the people you meet and talk to along the way. Today we met a young couple from Nova Scotia, Nic and Beck. We truly hope they continue on their amazing journey. It is their sense of wanderlust for adventure that reminded me of the younger version of Jo and Steve.

Rain, Rain Go Away!

Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.

Ralph Waldo Emmerson

Today we head south to Cottonwood Campground. It is now day two of rain. However last night there was FREEZING RAIN.  It was extremely mind boggling to see ice on the cactus and other desert bushes. Ice & cactus just doesn’t seem to go together!

We drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in the rain and fog. (Here’s hoping the trip back will be clearer!)  We stopped at Tuffs Canyon. If it wasn’t for the road sign, we would have driven right by it. Apparently “Tuff” refers to the white rock made of compressed volcanic ash particles. This short hike was supposed to be an easy one. However, because of a recent canyon wall crash there was a little bit of rock climbing to be done.  (Note that this canyon has since been closed due to more rock falls!)

It was an eerie experience walking through the canyon with its towering walls on both sides. I must say, it was much easier to walk the floor of the canyon than to look down into it from the look-off viewing platforms. (Remember I have a fear of heights) We even found a very bright blue purple flower; our first bit of color in the desert.

In the late afternoon the rain stopped so we took advantage of this and headed to Santa Elena Canyon. There were still many spots on the road that were flooded. You would think that the desert would suck that water up! Our plan was to do the Santa Elena Canyon Trail hike. The trail crosses the Terlingua Creek (which is usually dry). However, after two days of rain the water was very high. So, no crossing for us.

One thing for sure we were up to our ankles in mud. Anything for a picture! We will try again tomorrow if the sun is shining.

Challenge Accepted

Traveling is about finding those things you never knew you were looking for.

unknown

The Lost Mine Trail is the number one trail in Big Bend National Park. The lack of parking is the number one limiting factor to people not doing the trail. According to one Park Ranger it is their way of limiting this access. Now, when you are driving a 24 foot RV that is definitely more challenging! Challenge Accepted! 

Today’s hike was up to an elevation of 7550 ft. It would be a 1100 foot elevation, 5 mile hike (  ÌŽ 8km). Took us 4 hours to complete; too many photo stops 😊. The trail itself was well maintained and a fairly easy walk except for the elevation change.  You start in a treed area with some shade, then at the 1 mile mark you break out to the most beautiful & breathtaking view you can imagine. These views kept getting more spectacular as you climbed to the summit. This was an extremely satisfying feat.  Even with my irrational fear of heights I too, enjoyed the view from the top! 

I am soooooo glad we accepted the challenge and found a parking space. Of course Steve’s mad parking skills played a big part in this.

WOW!

The walls are bare, look out the window and you have a finer sight than any painter has ever placed on a piece of canvas.

Iian Pears

After 4286 miles (6857 KM) we finally made it to BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK!

Apparently Big Bend is named for the big bend in the Rio Grande River. We entered the park at Persimmon Gap (the north entrance). Our first stop was the Fossil Discovery Exhibit. This was extremely interesting to Steve as he always wanted to be an archeologist. They have made some great discoveries here!

The drive into the park was amazing. We were thinking wow how does it get better than this? Then we turned into Chisos Basin Park Road, and the views were SPECTACULAR! UNBELIEVABLE! WOW! Once again, good thing for digital!

Since we wanted to take advantage of the nice weather, we decided to do the Window Trail (5 miles). We actually started at an elevation of 5401 ft., Hiked down to 4600 ft. I know that an 801 foot elevation change doesn’t seem like much. However, when you are 60 and out of shape it was a work out.

Some of the trail was through the desert and dried up creek beds. It was the bottom of the valley. The majestic mountains towering over us were massive. It surely makes you put things into perspective. The pictures cannot do this justice. It is a memory we will have forever. The window is actually a break in the rock of the mountain where water used to “pour off” (still does after a rain). The opening has  a dramatic view of the vast desert expanse below.

A Diamond in the Rough

Spontaneity is what travel is all about.

Zach Anner

These couple of days are travel days. From Fredericksburg to Stillwell, Texas is approximately 400 miles. Straight west on the I – 10. Did you know there interstates here in Texas are 80 miles/hour (130km/hour)? And people are getting stopped for speeding! 

We detoured for a quick stop at South Llano River State Park. There we had lunch and dipped our toes in the river.

Drove through Bakersfield, TX and were amazed by the number of windmills – apparently Texas has the largest installed capacity of wind energy in the US at 37,422 megawatts. Who Knew?

We stayed overnight in Fort Stockton at a Harvest Host brewery, The Old ’76. However, it was closed but he still let us stay there anyway.

On a whim we decided to stop in the little town of Marathon. Population 365. It had a hotel, a coffee shop, a high-end artisans’ stores, a small garage, a convenience store and a Texas BBQ and Brewery. The Brick Vault (est 1886).  According to the locals it is the best BBQ in Texas. This time we would have to agree! As the waitress said “we are the diamond in the rough!

NEWS FLASH! – Jo Drove the camper – for 29 miles. The road was straight, flat and no one else was on it 😊 This was the longest 29 miles Steve has experienced on this trip. Not that he had concerns about Jo’s driving but he didn’t know how to keep from being bored!

Finally, Stillwell RV Park. Which is a glorified way of saying gravel pit camping.  However, electricity water and laundry facilities were a must before we spend a week in Big Bend National Park.

BURR!

Don’t ever save anything for a special occasion. Being alive is a special occasion.

Mary Engelbreit

Now; Trivia before we start the day.  It is actually warmer in Nova Scotia than it is here in Texas! Today we Started at the “Enchanted Rock State Natural Area”. It was so unique; the landscape was so diverse in this area. We hiked to the summit (1823ft) that had a 360-degree view of the park and Texas Hill Country. We climbed over the summit of Little Rock as well. (A story for another day). At Moss Lake, we stopped to take in the natural beauty and views of both summits.

Here we met a lovely couple from Texas, who had a new lease on life. Apparently, he had a near death experience a couple of weeks ago. He was truly enjoying being alive today!  He was so proud that he hiked to the summit. You could see what a special occasion this was for him.

Next, to replenish our fluids and sodium after our 4-hour hike, we tried another German brewery. “Altstadt”. Again, for Beer (Fluid) and Pretzel (Sodium). I know! 😊

Guess what I found???

. A chocolate company!! Chocolates El Rey. (Venezuelan Chocolate). Took the self guided tour and tried 12 different flavours of chocolate. Exchanged some flavour profiles ideas with the chocolatier, Johnathon. He offered me a job and said the interview would be very short. Four words. “When can you start?”. 

Next
 Oro Bianco, Italian Creamery. Their niche was Buffalo! Of course, buffalo meat done every which way. They even had a chocolate that they made with buffalo milk. However, the highlight was their unique gelato made with buffalo milk. The flavours were delightful. Who Knew?

To top off this amazing day, our stop for tonight was the “Messina Hof Winery”. We would highly recommend them to anyone traveling through. The staff was wonderful, pleasant, and knowledgeable. Oh yes, the wine was extremely good too.

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