Living life, one mile at a time!

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Reflections on campgrounds we’ve stayed in.

It’s All About the Rock

Whether in commerce, science, or politics – history remembers artists.

Naval Ravikant

Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site. This area has three unique large rock formations that rise above the Chihuahuan Desert floor. It is a little Oasis of nature and culture; that due to its geology and water availability has served as a place for animals, plants and humans for over 10,000 years. The rock art, that the park is famous for, dates back to the pueblo-type farming peoples (1000 AD). Apparently, there are thousands of pictographs in the park. Sadly, we only found a few…

They are extremely strict and protective of their park. So; we had only had access to the North Mountain. Unfortunately, we were unable to book a guided tour of the rest of the area. Oh well, we still made the best of it.

Now the other big attraction to the park is rock climbing. It was interesting to watch these young people climb up and over the sides of the rocks. Definitely not something on my list of things to do. We did however manage to keep ourselves busy for a day. 

Tomorrow Day Trip…El Paso!

In Tow…

Not I, not any one else can travel that road for you, You must travel it for yourself.

Walt whitman

Fort Davis is a little town in Texas that sits at an altitude of 5050 feet. It is situated in the middle of the Davis Mountains which are the most extensive mountain range fully contained within Texas. The state park we are at is another one of those many parks that were built in the 1930’s by the CCC.

Now our biggest challenge the past few weeks has been connectivity and Wi-Fi access.  Steve actually tried to conduct a business meeting in the shower block because it was one of the few areas with Wi-Fi in the park 😊.

We decided to hop on our bicycles and ride into town (just 15km round tri p).  The plan was to go to the local coffee shop; have coffee, a treat and hook up to their Wi-Fi, and get some work done. We stopped at the Double Shot Coffee Lounge. The cinnamon buns were fabulous! However, the Wi-Fi not so much (oh well). The coffee “Texas Wildfire Blend” was so good Steve had to buy a bag. This coffee is made in honour of all the firefighters who fought day and night to control the West Texas Wildfires of 2011 that destroyed more than 314,444 acres of land.

Now on the way into Fort Davis, Steve was quite far ahead of me. When I passed the hot dog cart vendor, he offered me a length of yellow rope out of the back of his truck. He said I could tie it to the back of Steve’s bike, so he could tow me up the hills. This way I could keep up. He was such a pleasant character. We did not get the yellow rope, but we did support him and bought a hot dog. By the time I walked up the last steep hill to the campground, I really wished I was “In Tow” with that Yellow Rope 😊.  Tomorrow we will definitely drive, not cycle the Fort Davis Scenic Loop.

Missed Opportunities

I realized something on the ride. I realized if I wait until I am not scared to try new things then I will never try them at all.

Marie Sexton

Fear can rob you of great opportunities. I feel today we missed out on a great experience. One thing to do that was suggested by many people was to cross into Mexico at the Boquillas border crossing. From here you are to take a row boat ride across the Rio Grande (for a small fee), then check out one of the two Mexican restaurants for a burrito and a beer. Still not sure why we didn’t. (Irrational fear that it was unsafe).

We did however take the hike into Boquillas Canyon and walked along the Rio Grande. We met up with some Mexicans who had crossed the Rio Grande on horseback; to sell their crafts, and even Chicken Tamales! They were all extremely friendly, polite and not pushy. I talked myself out of buying the chicken tamales. Because of fear; how was it cooked, is it kept cold in that saddle bag? Maybe it was the fear of breaking the law! Really Jo?? Who would ever know : you eat the evidence!  These friendly people are only trying to make a living!

The one thing I am extremely grateful for is that I did not listen to that man from Michigan who put the fear of God in me to not come to this park.  I am so grateful for every Texan that we met that encouraged us to come here; that it was safe, and it is an opportunity that we should not miss.

This has been the most SPECTACULAR week that anyone could imagine.  For anyone coming to Texas we highly recommend a trip to this magnificent park called Big Bend.  As the postcards say around here, this is Texas’s gift to the nation.

Rain, Rain Go Away!

Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.

Ralph Waldo Emmerson

Today we head south to Cottonwood Campground. It is now day two of rain. However last night there was FREEZING RAIN.  It was extremely mind boggling to see ice on the cactus and other desert bushes. Ice & cactus just doesn’t seem to go together!

We drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in the rain and fog. (Here’s hoping the trip back will be clearer!)  We stopped at Tuffs Canyon. If it wasn’t for the road sign, we would have driven right by it. Apparently “Tuff” refers to the white rock made of compressed volcanic ash particles. This short hike was supposed to be an easy one. However, because of a recent canyon wall crash there was a little bit of rock climbing to be done.  (Note that this canyon has since been closed due to more rock falls!)

It was an eerie experience walking through the canyon with its towering walls on both sides. I must say, it was much easier to walk the floor of the canyon than to look down into it from the look-off viewing platforms. (Remember I have a fear of heights) We even found a very bright blue purple flower; our first bit of color in the desert.

In the late afternoon the rain stopped so we took advantage of this and headed to Santa Elena Canyon. There were still many spots on the road that were flooded. You would think that the desert would suck that water up! Our plan was to do the Santa Elena Canyon Trail hike. The trail crosses the Terlingua Creek (which is usually dry). However, after two days of rain the water was very high. So, no crossing for us.

One thing for sure we were up to our ankles in mud. Anything for a picture! We will try again tomorrow if the sun is shining.

WOW!

The walls are bare, look out the window and you have a finer sight than any painter has ever placed on a piece of canvas.

Iian Pears

After 4286 miles (6857 KM) we finally made it to BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK!

Apparently Big Bend is named for the big bend in the Rio Grande River. We entered the park at Persimmon Gap (the north entrance). Our first stop was the Fossil Discovery Exhibit. This was extremely interesting to Steve as he always wanted to be an archeologist. They have made some great discoveries here!

The drive into the park was amazing. We were thinking wow how does it get better than this? Then we turned into Chisos Basin Park Road, and the views were SPECTACULAR! UNBELIEVABLE! WOW! Once again, good thing for digital!

Since we wanted to take advantage of the nice weather, we decided to do the Window Trail (5 miles). We actually started at an elevation of 5401 ft., Hiked down to 4600 ft. I know that an 801 foot elevation change doesn’t seem like much. However, when you are 60 and out of shape it was a work out.

Some of the trail was through the desert and dried up creek beds. It was the bottom of the valley. The majestic mountains towering over us were massive. It surely makes you put things into perspective. The pictures cannot do this justice. It is a memory we will have forever. The window is actually a break in the rock of the mountain where water used to “pour off” (still does after a rain). The opening has  a dramatic view of the vast desert expanse below.

BURR!

Don’t ever save anything for a special occasion. Being alive is a special occasion.

Mary Engelbreit

Now; Trivia before we start the day.  It is actually warmer in Nova Scotia than it is here in Texas! Today we Started at the “Enchanted Rock State Natural Area”. It was so unique; the landscape was so diverse in this area. We hiked to the summit (1823ft) that had a 360-degree view of the park and Texas Hill Country. We climbed over the summit of Little Rock as well. (A story for another day). At Moss Lake, we stopped to take in the natural beauty and views of both summits.

Here we met a lovely couple from Texas, who had a new lease on life. Apparently, he had a near death experience a couple of weeks ago. He was truly enjoying being alive today!  He was so proud that he hiked to the summit. You could see what a special occasion this was for him.

Next, to replenish our fluids and sodium after our 4-hour hike, we tried another German brewery. “Altstadt”. Again, for Beer (Fluid) and Pretzel (Sodium). I know! 😊

Guess what I found???……. A chocolate company!! Chocolates El Rey. (Venezuelan Chocolate). Took the self guided tour and tried 12 different flavours of chocolate. Exchanged some flavour profiles ideas with the chocolatier, Johnathon. He offered me a job and said the interview would be very short. Four words. “When can you start?”. 

Next… Oro Bianco, Italian Creamery. Their niche was Buffalo! Of course, buffalo meat done every which way. They even had a chocolate that they made with buffalo milk. However, the highlight was their unique gelato made with buffalo milk. The flavours were delightful. Who Knew?

To top off this amazing day, our stop for tonight was the “Messina Hof Winery”. We would highly recommend them to anyone traveling through. The staff was wonderful, pleasant, and knowledgeable. Oh yes, the wine was extremely good too.

TEXAS BBQ!

Exploration is really the essence of the human spirit.

Frank Borman

On our way to Lockhart, we stopped for the night at the Palmetto State Park. We really enjoyed this park’s unique ecosystem. Also, we managed to take the bikes off and explore their multiple trails.

Now, the goal was to hit Lockhart, Texas, which since the spring of 1999 has been declared the BBQ Capital of Texas. Lockhart’s BBQ history dates back to 1875. Apparently, three of Texas’s Best BBQ restaurants are right here in Lockhart. So, if you are going to try Texas BBQ why not go for the best! (Blacks, Kruez, and Smitty’s) Of the three best we decided to go to Black’s BBQ.  Why Black’s you ask. Because we overheard some locals say they were going to Black’s. 😊

Lockhart also had quite the historic charm so we found ourselves exploring the city on foot. We stayed at the Lockhart State Park for a couple of nights. We had hoped to get in a round of golf here but the weather did not agree. However Texas is very dry right now and needs the rain; so no complaints here.

Louisiana : Here We Come

You do not find the happy life, you make it.

Camilla Eyring Kimball

The sunrise here at Lincoln Lake State Park was amazing; very difficult to capture the moment on film. We will miss Mississippi, but Louisiana here we come!

Our first stop today was the Louisiana Welcome Centre. Loaded up on maps and pamphlets for NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana). Also got a free Louisiana coffee (with Chicory). We love the free-bees at the welcome centres, plus the friendly welcoming staff! 😊

Through our Harvest Host subscription, we heard about John Schneider’s Studios (remember the Dukes of Hazard) – unfortunately it turned out to be a bust.

Okay next stop Low Road Brewery company. Here we tried a flight; Lemon Blueberry Blonde Ale, Rebellious Red Head (Irish Style red), Twenty-two (American Lager), Smooth Operator (American Porter) and lastly Cloud Cover (Hazy IPA). The owner was extremely pleasant and apparently, we are living her dream. She sold her RV to buy the brewery… Steve says no way – we will just continue to support other craft breweries.

The stop for the next 3 nights is the Bayou-Segnette State Park which is south of NOLA. The weather was 20ish and time for shorts, t-shirts, bikes and after 10 days ; laundry!!

Lincoln Lake

Every breath we take, every step we make, can be filled with peace, joy and serenity.

Thich Nhat Hanh

After another 8 hour day of driving, we managed to find another beautiful state park; Lincoln Lake, Mississippi.

The campground staff were oh so friendly and helpful. We arrived just at closing so after a few stories about what she’s seen in the campground over the years (our favorite was the streaker in the woods!), she simply said “Go on down, find a spot and we’ll settle up in the morning”.

As for the beauty of the area, the pictures speak for themselves…

Davis Lake

Never be in a hurry; do everything quietly and in a calm spirit.

SAINT FRANCes dE sALES

Mile Marker 243.1 : This absolutely serene setting was our first 2-night stay.

After eight days of constant driving, we needed a day to chill, and be a little silly. The morning sunrise was majestic… How does it get better than this?

The Drive – Week 1

It’s not the destination, it’s the journey.

Ralph Waldo Emerson

As the quote says, it’s the journey that, to me, is the most exciting part of traveling. Don’t get me wrong; I love visiting new places but thankfully I also enjoy driving!

And this trip has a significant amount of driving!

We met a couple at Pigeon Forge, Tennessee who were originally from Texas and when we told them we were heading to Texas they said “What part of Texas, it’s a big state”. My response was “Well, we’ve come a long ways so Texas doesn’t seem to bad…”.

When Jo meets someone on this trip and they ask where we’re from her response is “Nova Scotia, Canada” followed quickly by “north of Maine”. Not everyone in the US knows exactly where Nova Scotia is but they know where Maine is!

Anyway, week 1 has given us unseasonal weather so instead of directly south on the I-95 and then across on the I-10, we decided to go a diagonal route and visit the Shenandoah & Great Smoky Mountains National Parks. What a wonderful decision on our part as these majestic areas are beautiful any time of the year!

Hope you enjoy this short highlight reel below…

OMG – The Great Smoky Mountains National Park

The mountains are calling and I must go.

John Muir

We had planned on stopping in Gatlinburg to try out the recommended brewery. However, it was busy!!! Worse than Pigeon Forge and Jo couldn’t get out of there fast enough.  So, off exploring the park we go.

Now you know how people always reference dogs being distracted by a squirrel. The drive was like that; every time you turned around you were captivated by another spectacular view, your head was on a swivel. There were a lot of OMG look at that…and That…OMG isn’t that beautiful. Even in the middle of winter there was a beauty to be found. The Kodak moments were abundant to say the least. Thank goodness for digital.

We walked the Kephart Prong Trail and found calmness in the sounds of the cascading river rapids flowing by. We dared to traverse over a very narrow foot bridge, okay a log to cross the river (over came the fear and did it anyway). Stopped at Newfound Gap elevation 5046 feet and grabbed the picture of the state lines sign. We climbed 165 stairs to view the Mingo Falls, highest in the park. We hiked the Three Falls Loop (3.5km) in Deep Creek. The falls were all full because of the recent rain they just had. Juney Whank Falls, Indian Creek Falls, and Tom Branch Falls.

The park exceeded all of Jo’s expectations. I believe Steve enjoyed driving the narrow windy roads…..maybe not, but he did enjoy the park.

This was a 2 day adventure with a quick overnight in Ela, North Carolina. After a quick stop in Bryson City North Carolina (very cute town) we headed back into Tennessee. The next stop was the Tansai Brewery in Chattanooga as a Harvest Host for the night.

Moonshine Lewis’s

I don’t know where I am going from here, but I promise it won’t be boring.

David Bowie

Tennessee Bound today. I am not sure of what it is but there is a lure that has always pointed me towards Tennessee. Is it the landscape? Maybe it’s the country music. Perhaps it is going to Dollywood (not). I know, must be the Moonshine. No, it is the chance to hike in the Great Smoky Mountains!

Today our target is Pigeon Forge, KOA; just out side the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Pretty well drove straight through for 479 km! The Tennessee Visitor center was the highlight of the drive. Always a photo op with the “Welcome To…” signs. Because we are an RV we always have to park with the trucks; man those things are massive. Winnie looks so small!

Okay we reached our destination for the night. Pigeon Forge – it was definitely not the quiet spot we had thought it was. Man, it is like Niagara Falls on Steroids! Yikes!!

We decided to explore the area. In true Jo and Steve fashion we found ourselves… Yep you guessed it… sampling the vintages at the Mill Bridge Winery. Kevin was our server/host and he tried hard to find a wine or cider that Jo might like; but to no avail. However, he did point us in the direction of a couple of great breweries for our future travels.

Now, the next stop was the Old Forge Distillery. We were here in 2016 and they couldn’t serve us because we did not have our IDs!!! Imagine getting carded at the age of 60! We made sure we had ID tonight. We tried 10 different types of moonshine some of it was really tasty or maybe I lost feeling in my taste buds. Maybe it’s in my blood after all the “Lewis” (Jo’s Mom’s side) have a history of making Moonshine….so the story goes.

All I know I slept well that night and my cold had improved greatly.

The Shenandoah Valley

Adventure is worthwhile in itself

Amelia Earhart

Well, after that nerve-wracking drive yesterday a change of plans was definitely in order. We are taking a different route. Even though I said I would NEVER drive the I-95 again after yesterday, we had to take it to get to the I-66. We are heading to the Shenandoah with plans to take the Skyline drive.

Okay a question to all of you. Would you Pay $30 to drive the 105-mile Skyline Trail?  I would guess YES! Next question; would you pay $30 to drive 5 miles of the Skyline Trail….. I would guess NO! Apparently, the Trail is blocked from recent storm damage so now you know why there is no pictures from the drive.

However we did decide to take Hwy 340 south which took us down the Shenandoah Valley. The drive was spectacular and the scenery was breathtaking. The drive was also a much slower more relaxing pace for Steve. Only one state and one map required for today; Virginia!

Now in true Jo and Steve fashion we found a local brewery in Lexington VA, Devil’s Backbone. We tried their “Crabcakes & Football” a Session IPA, and a “Spill the Tea” Golden Ale. And a take out pack of their “Naughty or Nice” IPA to try later.

After another long day our home for tonight was Douthat State Park. A lovely quiet spot in the Allegheny Mountains of Virginia.

Heading back to Ottawa, again!

Life is an adventure not a package tour!

Eckhart Tolle

Well, it is time to drive back to Ottawa, Winnie has her last visit to Niagara for the last warranty visit.  Yeah!!!

Today the drive through New Brunswick was absolutely stunning with all the vibrant fall colours. The yellows where so brilliant, the reds and oranges were a blaze of colors. It was an absolutely spectacular drive and made the time go by quickly.

One thing we like to do when we travel is to stop before it gets dark. We read on someone else’s blog one day about stopping before dark so we have tried really hard to incorporate that in our daily travel limits. And we needed to stop because of the fuel situation …if you know what I mean. Today we checked out that iOverlander app again. There was this municipal park in Levis, Quebec on the river that only had a posted sign about no parking from “Nov to April” so we parked for the night. This little gem was an absolutely fabulous find. From this parking lot you had incredible views of the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City. We watched the cruise ships come down the St Lawrence and stop in Quebec. We walked to the Ferry terminal and down the boardwalk and also checked out the beautiful fountains.

We wanted to stop at Corsaire-Micbrasseri for a beer and supper, Unfortunately the deck was closed and they did not allow dogs in the restaurant. So, we checked out the little Café Bonte Divine! The food was good. All in all, this municipal park is definitely a spot to recommend to fellow travellers.

Kejimkujik National Park : Day 2

In every walk-in nature one receives far more than he seeks.

John Muir

There was a magical and mystical morning fog that hung over the lake in a calmness that I can’t explain. The pristine quiet which gave you a sense of peacefulness. A sense of vastness that had you wondering what more was out there……

Once the fog lifted it was the most picturesque day you can imagine. While exploring Keji, our travels had us checking out the dark tea waters of Mersey River (apparently a historic river too). Biking, even on a board walk – which seems to be common in National Parks. We also watched the canoers leave Jakes Landing, from Whynot Adventures – I so wanted to canoe but my knee was not up for it. A stop at the turtle crossings looking for the endangered Blanding Turtles to no avail. Although while hiking we did see a rare snake and I must say much too close for my liking! We walked the Volunteer Walk of Honour – “Their Trail of Success” and lastly, we were captivated by the sounds of the rushing Mills Falls.

All in all, just what the doctor would ordered! Next year we will check out the Kejimkujik National Park Seaside which is a separate protected wilderness on the Atlantic Coast!

Kejimkujik National Park

Mi’kmaw – Land of the Little Fairies

Mi’kmaq legends

Well, I finally made it. I am in my mid-fifties and have always talked about wanting to go there and finally I made it; and Kejimkujik National Park or Keji (as the locals call it) lived up to ALL my expectations.  This picturesque National Park is definitely in harmony with nature. As you have noticed, I love to take pictures. Well this visit, was over the top. Over 1000 pictures; I couldn’t help myself. Good thing for digital imagery! Definitely made for some longer bike rides, (time wise anyway). Although I tried my best, the pictures do not give it any justice at all.

Keji has something for all, outdoorsman, hiking, canoeing, biking, bird watchers, historians, wildlife enthusiasts and Star gazers.  They have Campfire programmes and an Outdoor amphitheatre, also some Aboriginal rock art that illuminates Mi’kmaw heritage. They have a Sky Circle that shows you the Dark sky preserves. On a dark night allows you experience the astronomical depth of this allowing you to gaze at the brilliant celestial bodies (stars) with the naked eye. It was Simply Amazing.

We spent a couple of days here at Jeremy’s Bay Campground, (unfortunately it will be closed for the 2020 season). We had a site that you could see the water through he trees, it was quite and peaceful and just what we needed a chance to slow down.

UBEKNOWNST

Well It is time for another warranty check up for Winnie, so back to Niagara we go. This time our routine maintenance turned into another adventure. We decided to travel south of the border. (Honestly anything to avoid the 401). Once over the Ogdensburg bridge, we decided to head a little more east and navigated ourselves to the Robert Moses State Park, Massena, NY situated in the Thousand Islands area.

Now, to reach the park you have to go under a tunnel, unbeknownst to us at the time this was a tunnel under the Eisenhower Lock. We actually didn’t discover this until the next morning.

September is a nice quiet time of year to camp there. We explored the campground on foot, along the 4B-Long Sault Dike with beautiful water views. We did not do the full length of the dike which, unbeknownst to us, would lead us to the elusive Eisenhower Lock.  

Our campsite had views of the water, and at night when sitting around the campfire you noticed the lights of a ship docked in the distance. Unbeknownst to us, it was a ship waiting to enter the Eisenhower Lock.

The sunrise in the morning was tranquil, the water was calm and picturesque. With the gracefulness of the ducks swimming by and the morning chirping of the birds in the tress, at this moment I really understand the Mother Earth and Father Sky Thing! Absolutely stunning scenery. Both visually and auditorily!

In the morning we are heading out of the park and you guessed it; we saw the sign for the Eisenhower Lock! – so this time knowingly we went to see it.  To watch a tanker ship, raise 46 feet up in the water was extraordinary to say the least! Definitely a must see, if you’re in the area.

Check out our video here!

Sugarloaf Provincial Park

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

shutterstock.com

The end of the Acadian Coastal Drive is where the Appalachian Route starts. Definitely, totally different scenery than we have seen for the past few days.  However, how do you not love mountains!

Now if you are from the west coast you would probably call these rolling hills. Rolling hills or mountains; the Appalachians are beautiful. At the north end of the Appalachian route is the Sugarloaf Provincial Park.  At the base of the mountain is the ski lift and definitely an area to come to, if you like to ski. There are also multi-use trails for biking, hiking, or cross-country skiing in the winter.

Today we decided we would hike the Terry Fox Trail which connects to the Summit Trail to the top for fabulous views. Now the Terry Fox Trail itself is wide flat and well groomed, with the exception of one down tree the trail was pristine.

We connected to the Summit Trail which started off lovely but soon turned into a steep, rough and uneven path. (Definitely use good footwear). The elevation for us, out of shape people, was a challenge. But in general, it was a good challenging path. The views from the summit of Chaleur Bay and the Gaspé  were definitely worth the hike.

As we say, “how does it get better than this…….??”

The Acadian Isles

Lighthouses don’t go running all over an island looking for boats to save; they just stand there shinning.

Anne Lamott

Today, we continued up the Acadian Coastal Drive and decided to check out the Acadian Isles and go to the tip of New Brunswick. We were just at the “edge of New Brunswick” so why not the tip as our next stop?  Miscou Island is that tip!

Definitely a road less traveled, but also definitely worth the drive. We found a small, quaint campground “Camping la Vague”, basically right on the beach. Now we know that people will boon-dock in the area around the lighthouse. But today we decided to support the local economy.  Might have something to do with the fact we needed to hook up to electricity for the night!

A walk on the beach with views of the windswept coastline, checking out the drift wood, and looking for beach glass along the shore. Watching the sunset and listening to the waves wash up on the shoreline at high tide made for a perfect evening. A trip to the island is not complete without seeing the lighthouse. Isn’t a lighthouse the icon of a coastal drive?

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